Let us illustrate. You are setting out to work: it’s hot, a good day to wear that linen shirt. You are looking crisp, cool, seasonally on point—when you set out, that is. But an hour later, you clock in looking like you have slept in your clothes on your commute. It’s a fabric prone to wrinkling. And even as it was favoured by the Long Island up-andcomer Jay Gatsby, who would sip gin in a snazzy linen suit, it is something that can crumple your style faster than Gatsby’s American dream.
However, therein lies its charm, says Kaveri Lalchand, founder of Chennaibased linen-only, slow fashion brand Kaveri. Lalchand started out 14 years ago in a fabric that she says has always fascinated her. “Linen has a great texture and feel. The weight of the fabric gives it a structure and it doesn’t fall flat,” she says. “It’s steeped in history and was used in ancient Egypt and has found mention in the Bible too. It’s elegant but earthy; luxurious but sustainable. It’s formal and yet casual enough to be worn on the beach. The best bit? It gets better with age.” Lalchand is happy that many younger consumers are discovering it—and, in no small part, thanks to designers.
There’s Anavila Misra of Anavila, who made linen saris fashionable; Priya Mittal, designer & founder of Yam India, who works with 100% linen; Rina Singh of Eka who has used it in all her collections; and Hemant Sagar, founder of Genes Lecoanet Hemant, who finds more meaning to linen beyond just the fabric.
Says Sagar: “A popular French adage goes, ‘Linen creases in a noble manner.’ We ascertain certain emotive qualities to a fabric. With linen, it is that sentiment of lived-in luxury that stands out.”
Fatima K Punjaabi, founder of conscious brand Mati, echoes Sagar’s sentiments. She says, “Linen, to me, holds a certain stillness and honesty. What truly sets it apart is its biocompatibility with the human body. You genuinely feel better wearing it, it breathes with you.” Sagar says, “In the Indian context, the reflective properties of white linen are perfect for summers. Always cut for ease, the air trapped between a linen shirt and the body is like a protective layer.”
It is not only high fashion. Linen features in summer collections of affordable brands like Fabindia or Okhai, high-street names like GAP, Marks & Spencer and Uniqlo and linen-only, mid-range brands like Live Linen and Saphed. According to an April 2024 report in The Times of India, retailer Raymond’s said that volumes of linen fabric had increased by over 20% since 2023-end and the sales spiked due to elections as politicians chose “midrange linen or linen-blend fabric for public appearances”.
NEW & IMPROVED
Much of the bad rap that linen—woven from flax—gets is because many think it is heavy and stiff or that it creases. But designer Misra says that is part of its personality: “It’s a relaxed fabric, not one that’s meant to be stiff.” New design interventions are also helping change that image. Misra uses special loom settings and finishes to improve the fall and texture, especially of her saris. She says, “I always look for ways to stay close to the simplicity of linen, but add layers of texture, technique and emotion. For me, innovation with linen comes through craft, not through loud changes.”
Sandeep Gonsalves, cofounder of designer brand Sarah & Sandeep, works with linen blends to reduce creasing. But he notes that linen has to be cared for: “We advise clients to steam instead of ironing, to air-dry in shade and store in breathable bags.” Designers are also using linen for Indianwear, even occasionwear.
Misra started her range of linen saris in 2010. She says: “I started working with linen because I wanted to reimagine the sari as something that could be worn every day, and this fabric allowed me to do that.”
Lalchand also makes linen saris that start at Rs 16,500. She even has a couture collection and linen lehengas upwards of Rs 50,000. She works with weavers and mills to develop different qualities of linen for different hand feel.
WHAT’S TRENDING?
Nimit Singhi, founder of Live Linen, says linen is gradually becoming popular in India and is entering slow luxury. Live Linen’s pricing range is Rs 5,000-15,000. Singhi says that for 2025 they are working with muted, nature-rooted tones like soft olives, mineral greys, dusty pinks and wheat beige.
For someone starting a linen wardrobe, his advise is to begin with a versatile solid shirt or a co-ord set in subtle tones. Agrees Apurva Kothari of Goa-based ethical fashion brand No Nasties, which has just launched its first linen collection since the brand’s inception in 2011. He says this was a natural progression for t h e m as they are always looking for sustainable fashion choices and linen checks all their boxes. For their maiden collection, he has kept the fits relaxed and the clothes multifunctional. Gonsalves says that all linen wardrobes must have a neutral co-ord that can be worn together or styled separately. His advice: Layer with a jacket or pair the separates with denim as you build your wardrobe.
Investing in a well-tailored linen suit for summer is a must, says style & image consultant and corporate grooming coach Yatan Ahluwalia. He says, “Stick to a colour palette. Mix and match two colours, use white to offset pastels. For the suit, keep the shape and form as structured as possible. I suggest a slim fit.” His tip to pick the right linen is to check its transparency, “The shirts could be a bit opaque. Hold the fabric against light. If the light blocks, the fabric may be too heavy or stiff.”
Singhi says purity of linen can be gauged by touching and crumpling it. His hack: “After washing, it feels cool and soft and has a matte finish. Pure linen wrinkles immediately but gently when crumpled.” He says the linen buyer today is someone who seeks comfort with consciousness, values quality over quantity and sees clothing as an experience. “Earlier, linen buyers were travellers or designers. Now young professionals, new parents and even college students love it for its comfort,” he notes.
Punjaabi says this year, linen is moving beyond easy-breezy basics. “It is taking on more structured and layered silhouettes like tailored co-ord sets, wrap tunics and versatile jumpsuits. Another exciting shift is its multifunctionality: our linen garments are designed to be styled across seasons and occasions, not just for summer.” Her colour picks would be: earthy, grounding tones, moss green, burnt terracotta, clay, deep indigo and undyed naturals. Her must-haves: a well-cut shirt, relaxed-fit trousers and a transitional tunic or overlay.
Mittal, however, is leaning towards a vibrant colour palette with bold botanical prints and a range of pastels. She says, “Educating consumers on proper washing, drying and storage techniques can help prolong the life of their linen pieces, ensuring they stay fresh and beautiful.”
Sagar says, “Linen is an investment and a great way to slowly build a sartorially rich wardrobe. But care is as important as curating when it comes to clothes.” Singhi’s suggestion: wash linens in lukewarm water, air dry, iron on low temperature. Misra says embrace the fabric as it is: “Most importantly, wear it often. Linen responds to being lived in.
